Tag Archives: Seam finishes

Floaty Collar Blouse Gutzz and my First Tutorials!

16 Jul

So, as promised, here are the lovely gutz of my floaty collar blouse!

The first thing I want to brag on share with you, is also the subject of my first tutorial – Seam finishes.

Because of the (previously mentioned) wonderfullness of the Collar Confection blouse pattern, the construction only leaves four (FOUR!!!) exposed seams that need to be dealt with.  That beautifully small number is what encouraged me to finally attempt some of the construction techniques I’ve been reading about in my most recent favorite sewing book.

If you are new to the world of sewing, or just new to some of the terminology and god-like figures (like I am)  – Claire B. Shaeffer is one of the greatest and most well know sewing writers on the past 5 decades.  Her books (especially this one) are truly canonical  works in the sewing realm.  I had no idea this was the case, but I stumbled on this book during a vacation to Asheville, NC earlier this year – and I couldn’t put it down.

This book has literally anything you could possibly want to know about couture sewing. I had no idea that so much of couture sewing was done by hand, but most of it is.  The seam finishes were what I wanted to try first.  Shaeffer talks about the importance of choosing your seam finishing based onthe type of fabric you are using and one of the finished suggested for a really light weight fabric like I used on the floaty blouse was the self bound seam.

What you see below is not exactly what you would see on a couture self bound seam.  I’ll explain the difference in the tutorial, but what you are most basically looking at is the cheaters version of a couture seam finish.  I used a 1/8th in running hand stitch to finish these seams and it is working out beautifully.

I also used a more basic and familiar hand overcast stitch to finish the heavier seams around the shoulder and collar area.  (sorry for the blurry photo, the good camera died  last week and I haven’t been to remedy the problem yet). This seam finishing is, perhaps, the least bulky finish you can possibly use. A simple overcast hand stitch allows the seam to move normally, but still hold up to a lot of wear and tear.

You can (almost) also see that I also understitched the collar to help it lay flat and smooth around the neckline.